Solo Travel Using a Relatively Unknown But Worthy Hub
Italy is full of cities and towns that are seldom mentioned in travel guides or on travel television shows, and many of them are every bit as beautiful as their better known Italian tourist destinations. Recently in Puglia (also known as Apulia) we discovered the lovely and extraordinarily convenient city of Monopoli, my hub of choice for anyone wanting to explore the heel of Italy’s boot. Solo travelers in particular will find Puglia easy to navigate, safe and welcoming since its locals personify Italy’s renowned southern hospitality.
Puglia is a breathtakingly lovely and mysterious region in the Italy’s arid south. It has olive groves by the mile, welcoming beaches, sophisticated cities like Lecce, the “Florence of the South” and, most characteristically, the famous trulli. These conical shaped whitewashed buildings dot the countryside everywhere in Puglia. They have become the symbol of this region and they come in all sizes, from trulli churches to trulli homes and even trulli guard houses. Their historic origins are unclear, but they are ancient buildings that have stood the test of time, their pie-shaped rooms sitting beneath round stone roofs with a central chimney.
Single Rooms at Reasonable Rates
The Italian agriturismi, farm holiday lodgings, offers great value, safe harbors and the opportunity to speak with like-minded travelers over exquisite meals served in the dining rooms of the agriturismo. Often these places have a small number of rooms, usually between 5 and 10, so they provide the opportunity for as much privacy or interaction as the single traveler desires. Puglia is in the forefront of agriturismo in Italy, so travelers can select the lodging best suited for them from a wide variety of offerings.
In Monopoli we chose the Tenuta Chianchizza which is located right off the autostrada from the airport at Bari. Flights leave from Rome regularly and the round trip fare is approximately $250. Car rentals are convenient for pick up and drop off at the airport: an automobile is essential for the traveler to explore the region. Roads are well-marked and convenient to all tourist attractions but a GPS is helpful. For those who wish a local driver, the tenuta or hotel can always help with such arrangements.
Tenuta Chianchizza is an old olive pressing facility that has been tastefully renovated with 8 large rooms, each with a private bath and its own terrace facing the groves. Accommodations are excellent and breakfast is included in the per person room charge of approximately $80-$90 per night depending on the season. The owners, Carlo and Carmen, are helpful and charming hosts and may even offer guests a tour of the modern olive oil factory nearby. Finally the restaurant at the tenuta, with a lovely outdoor terrace as well as indoor tables, serves gourmet fare at reasonable prices and is also open to the public.
Parking is ample and free at the tenuta. Solo travelers will appreciate the convenient location of their lodging in Monopoli with the highway close by and the distances to many attractions being no more than an hour or two from their base.
The City of Monopoli
Monopoli itself is worth seeing. It has characteristic narrow streets and lovely palm-lined squares. Shops and restaurants abound and local ceramics and other crafts make wonderful souvenirs.The impressive castle of Charles V often hosts art exhibits and special events, and the city’s Basilica Cattedrale is an imposing 18th century structure. A renovation that took place in 1986 unearthed archeological finds dating back to a previous cathedral erected by Bishop Ronualdo in 1107. The crypt is said to contain structural elements originating from the Hellenistic and bronze ages,
Meals can be taken in any number of good restaurants or informal cafes in the town. We were enchanted by the seaside Ristorante Porta Foca where two devoted local chefs prepare fresh seafood delicacies accompanied by just-harvested local produce and divine desserts. Solo travelers will enjoy the peaceful terrace dining area with the sea and Monopoli’s ancient fort as a backdrop.
Monopoli offers sandy beaches stretching the coast all the way to Bari, just 26 miles away. The single traveler can spend a pleasant day in the sun and sea taking the midday meal at the beach’s own restaurant or walking into town for a panino and gelato in a choice of local establishments in Monopoli. As is true all over Italy, it is all but impossible to get a bad meal in this town.
Underrated and, for visitors, blissfully undiscovered, Monopoli is not only a charming destination in itself but also makes a perfect base from which to explore Puglia as a region.
Monopoli As the Gateway to Puglia
The elegant city of Lecce is a beautiful 90 minute drive away for a must see day trip. It has a famous roman amphitheater and many ancient ruins within the city itself. Its shops are varied and stylish. On weekends, fortunate amateur camera buffs may see beautiful brides being photographed on their wedding day in the city center. Restaurants and outdoor cafes offer dining and refreshment options for every budget and solo travelers will find natives willing to help with directions and recommendations. Lecce is beautiful, safe and welcoming.
On another day, the traveler can start out after a leisurely breakfast in Monopoli for a short 9 mile drive to Alberobello, one of the region’s trulli centers. Its main street is lined with trulli buildings of all sizes, many now converted to shops selling local artisan crafts. At the top of the hill, a large trullo church is worth visiting. There is ample public parking with automated parking machines that take cash or credit cards. After a rewarding day, the traveler can return to his or her peaceful room in Monopoli for dinner at the tenuta.
One of the most haunting sites in Puglia is the Castel del Monte near the town of Polignano. This huge fortress was built by the beloved Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II in the 13th century.
Two hours from Monopoli through beautiful countryside and charming towns, this excursion will provide the solo traveler with a memorable day-long experience of all that Puglia has to offer.
The Basics
We found Monopoli to be the perfect choice for any travelers hoping to discover Puglia. Solo travelers will find it particularly perfect because the agriturismi offer single accommodations at reasonable prices, the region is safe, affordable, easy to navigate by car and because the people of Puglia make every visitor feel at home.
Flights to the Bari airport leave Rome daily: highways from the capital to Puglia are also straightforward and clearly marked for those who may wish to drive to and from Rome or other major cities to the north.
Best seasons, as always in Italy, are spring, early summer and fall. Try to avoid August vacation crowds, and the dead of winter which can be melancholy. But whenever you visit Puglia, the weather will usually be kind.
Buon viaggio!