A new car depreciates as soon as you drive it off the lot. Buying new means you don’t have any information about recalls or mechanical reviews. For these reasons you shouldn’t be afraid to buy a good used vehicle and for those of us who can’t afford a certified pre-owned car I compiled a simple inspection I make when I look for a car.
1. Do judge a book by it’s cover. While a faded clear coat isn’t a reason to walk away you do want to look carefully at the exterior paint. Do the colors seem brighter on different sections of the car? If so this could mean it has been in a wreck. Not all wrecked cars have police reports filed and are available to CarFax. Do the seams of each section meet together? For example the right side quarter panel rises up above the seam of the trunk, this could also mean a possible fender bender.
2. Get inside and take a wiff. That’s right use your nose. Does it smell moldy? If so it could have flood damage or someone may have just left a window down too many times. Are the seats and carpet clean and free of stains? If so this could give a clue the owner also maintained the service of the vehicle too. It also gives you a clue as to what the previous owner used the vehicle for.
3. What is the mileage, make and model? In my opinion there are some brands that hold up better than others when it comes to mileage but do some research on the web for consumer reviews and form your own opinion. I try to avoid anything over 80,000.
4. Start the vehicle, raise the hood, and look around. Start from the back and go to the front looking for melted wires, leaks, belts or hoses that are cracked and worn. Do you smell anything burning? Even if you don’t recognize the smells you shouldn’t notice anything pugent. Do you see any smoke? Even if the dealer says it’s just a little oil on the motor from an oil change raise the dip stick. If it looks like chocolate milk walk away it could have a blown head gasket. Is there water coming out of the tail pipe? If so it could be a little condensation or a blown head gasket. Is there a great deal of grease on the motor? If so it’s probably a leaking valve cover gasket. If oil is anywhere near the spark plugs watch out it could catch on fire. Look at the battery is it wet or is there white stuff on it? Does it smell like rotten eggs? If so, it’s not a deal breaker if you can get a new one.
5. Raise the hood and listen. Does the motor humm without interruptions? If you hear anything more than a humming keep looking a knocking noise is a broken rod and a rattling is lifters both are internal motor compartments and could require a rebuild on the motor. Does the engine putt around? If so this could be a money pit it could mean anything from a sensor, spark plug, water in the gas, timing chain or belt, or you get the idea a whole hoopla of guessing for you and a mechanic.
6. Did it pass 1 through 6? If so now take it for a test drive. First give it a quick acceleration. Does it seem like it stalls or does it smoothly climb up? If it seems to struggle don’t worry it’s not the end of the world jsut a clue to the next checks. Next come to an abrupt stop. Do you hear sqealing or shaking? This could be your brake pads or rotors needing work it’s not the end of your ride but an area to negotiate to a lower price none the less. Now look for an open parking lot and do some donuts or sharp curves not fast just enough where you can listen. Do you hear any thumps or knocking is there any sqealing? If so be careful you could have a problem with tie rods, transaxels or wheel bearings, etc. Now check the temperature gauge is it normal or half way or way above that? If it was the half way creeping slowly watch out and if the latter bring it back quick before you have to call a tow truck. No temperature issues, now have some fun hit a pot hole, not fast, just enough where you can listen. Was there knocking or a thump? If so it could be a problem with the suspension system – not usually a deal breaker or an immediate fix but an issue none the less. Don’t for get to turn on everything electrical to see how it works and make sure nothing flickers or jitters. If so be careful not many mechanics who would bother fixing a wiring harness but small things could only be a simple fix with a fuse. Now take it back to the lot.
7. Raise the hood again. Is there anything liquids leaking, blowing out, smoking, or new noises. If so you may have just exposed an underlying problem with this simple test I avoided a$10,000 mistake on a 2007 Buick Lacrosse that passed every other test except it started running half way warm on a short trip and the water pump went out right in front of me on the lot. Believe me when I say the car was immacculate and I was getting ready to crunch some numbers but I just listened one last time and saved myself from a huge msitake.
8. Look under the vehicle. Do you see the long thick metal frame? Is the rust thick or are there visible holes? If so this is dangerous a vehicle with a damaged frame is considered totaled and unrepairable in a collision.
9. Check the title and the car facts. If it has no liens, and isn’t rebuilt it should be ok.
10. Walk away with the make, model, mileage, VIN and year. Go home and check the NADA guides for pricing, and specs. How is the gas mileage? Look for consumer reviews and recalls.
Congratulations! If you made it this far you may have just got a decent car hopefully at a good price.