A weekend in New England is never as lovely as in autumn when nature’s own spectacular show of fall foliage is the colorful stuff that inspires songwriters, poets and lovers alike. A New England visit in fall should center upon the stately and handsome grande dame of New England cities, Boston, the state capital of Massachusetts. Nearby classical Concord and Lexington, Massachusetts infuse a touch of revolutionary history less than an hour to the west. Magnificent oceanside Newport, Rhode Island offers a dash of Gilded Age elegance about sixty miles south. Soak up bursts of fiery-colored deciduous maple, ash, oak, dogwood, beech, birch and sycamore reflected upon occasional lakes when driving through the New England countryside. Stick to the back roads between these cities for the full foliage effect and you have all the makings of a bi-state autumn trip to remember without chalking up too many miles or tankfuls of gas!
Boston, Massachusetts – “Hub of the Universe”
Proud Bostonians have long referred to this as the “hub of the universe”. It is definitely the hub of New England’s six state region and a wonderfully pedestrian-oriented medium-sized city. Frequently found under a blanket of white in the winter months, or a bit too steamy in summer, autumn is the ideal time to head for Boston. Make the most of her walkability by following the famous Freedom Trail, a 2.5 mile self-guided National Park Service operated tour beginning near the golden-domed State House at the Boston Common. Taking in 16 nationally significant historic sites, a red-brick sidewalk path indicates the route followed by some three million visitors a year. See the weather-worn winged angel headstones at Granary Burial Grounds, pause at the site of the bloody 1770 Boston Massacre, admire the handsome steeple of the Old North Church where Paul Revere hung his two lanterns and enter his 1680 house, climb Bunker Hill Monument to imagine the whites of the Redcoats’ eyes and board the steel gray 1797 frigate USS Constitution, “Old Ironsides”.
Boston’s Emerald Necklace
Through the heart of the city runs the Frederick Law Olmsted-designed green belt known as the Emerald Necklace, an extensive series of parks, fens, fields, ponds and riverwalks that provide a tranquil escape without truly leaving the city. Open 365 days a year, Harvard University’s Arnold Arboretum covers 265 acres and promises to be bursting in glorious autumnal tones displayed by 4,000 varieties among its 15,000 trees.
Ye Olde Union Oyster House and a Stay by the Bay
Since legend says that summer is not ideal for shellfish, the season returns in autumn. Maine lobsters were caught in record-breaking numbers in 2010 and 2011, so stop in at a waterfront establishment, like the Union Oyster House. It’s the nation’s oldest restaurant in continuous operation, established in 1826 and now a National Historic Landmark. Famous for its delicious, filling creamy white New England Clam Chowder and shucked oysters on a half shell with horseradish and sherry vinegar, ask for a quahog. If you’re not from New England, they will explain. Friday afternoons attract many workers from nearby City Hall and Government Center. Browse and stroll near the waterfront at historic and lively Quincy Market and step inside the former town hall meeting place, Faneuil Hall, our 1742 “Cradle of Liberty”. Hotels along the Freedom Trail include Harborside Inn, the deluxe Ames Hotel overlooking the Old State House and by the King’s Chapel, the Kennedy family’s much-loved Omni Parker House.
Revolutionary Concord and Lexington, Massachusetts
Head 28 miles west for the home of “the shot heard ’round the world” at Concord and Lexington, the historic twin cities. As the sun was rising on April 19, 1775, the American Revolutionary War began here, at Concord’s Old North Bridge. The outbreak of open armed conflict between the 13 colonies and the Kingdom of Great Britain, led to America’s very first, important victory. Explore Concord’s Minuteman National Park and Lexington’s Battle Green and National Heritage Museum to see the site of significant battlefields, enduring monuments, showcases of American history.
Notable Natives and Rambling Around
Take a tour of the two-story white clapboard 1710 Buckman Tavern in Lexington, where Minutemen met to await the arrival of British soldiers. Relax aboard the Liberty Ride trolley tour with a costumed tour guide commentary through both Lexington and Concord. Stop at Sleepy Hollow Cemetery to pay respects to Thoreau, Ralph Waldo Emerson, patriot Nathaniel Hawthorne and visit Orchard House, setting for “Little Women”, and once the home of author Louisa May Alcott and her sisters. When educational stimulation is fulfilled, reward yourself by visiting roadside farm stands piled high with autumn fresh produce like crispy apples and plump pumpkins, stumble upon antique shops with local pewter and silver, clocks and furniture and discover homemade ice cream stalls like Bedford Farms at Depot Squre in Concord and Rancatore’s in downtown Lexington. Rent a bike to plunge the wheels through small piles of autumn leaves and if you’re spending the night, stay in the mood at Concord’s historic Colonial Inn, established 1716.
Thoreau’s Walden Pond
Once the Concord home of native author, environmentalist and philosopher, Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862), Walden Pond is now managed by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts and is a designated National Historic Landmark. A popular swimming destination in summer, visitation is limited to 1,000 per day; you will benefit from both smaller crowds and gorgeous foliage in the fall. As autumn leaves descend, many people enjoy hiking the lovely trails of Walden Woods where 2,680 acres ring the lake. National Park interpreters offer tours of this birthplace of conservationism which includes a look at a replica of Thoreau’s one-room cabin on its shores, where his major work, “Walden”, had its inspiration.
Newport, Rhode Island
A stunning colonial city by the ocean and famous for year-round festivals, Newport is a not-to-be-missed destination for a touch of The Gilded Age revisited. The Flower Show is in June, Campbell’s International Tennis Hall of Fame Championship in July, the famous Folk Music and Jazz Festival in August, the WIne & Food Festival and International Boat Show in late September. But in the fall, you will miss crowds and long lines to tour this destination’s centerpiece, the historic Newport Mansions, where stunning Christmas decorations go up early, beginning November 19. The Breakers, The Elms and Marble House will all be open daily for tours and decorated for the holidays through January 1, 2012. The Preservation Society of Newport County maintains ten extraordinary mansions and gardens for which tickets can be purchased online. Holiday Evenings take place on Saturdays, November 26, December 3, 10, 17 and 31, 2011. Mansions are closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
The Gilded Age
From the end of the Civil War in 1865 through the start of World War I in 1914, Newport was the summer social playground of the rich and famous, where oceanfront mansions of extraordinary proportions were built with no expense spared. The Vanderbilts and the Astors rubbed elbows with their privileged guests in billiard rooms and ballrooms. Years later, in the fall of 1953, the Bouviers hosted 1,200 at wedding reception at their Newport Hammersmith Farm for Jacqueline and her new husband, John F. Kennedy. Today, visitors can take in the extraordinary ocean views enjoyed by the very best-situated massive mansions by following the 3.5 mile Cliff Walk along the rocky bluffs featuring abrupt 70- foot drops.
Stay Longer and Save
Newport is chock-a-block with affordable and charming Victorian bed & breakfast inns where cozy fireplace lounges entice guests via welcome signs hung along cobblestoned streets adorned with gas lanterns. Vacancies in summertime can be a real challenge. However in the fall, even deluxe hotels like the Hilltop Inn or the Inn at Castle Hill with its beautiful 40-acre grounds leading right to the edge of Narragansett Bay, are offering shoulder season extended stay rates. There is plenty more to see and to do if you stay longer. Check out the Tennis Hall of Fame and even play yourself on the historic grass courts dating from 1881, head down to the waterfront to join Oktoberfest or the Haunted Shipyard at the Newport Yachting Center, visit the Aquarium, charter a boat for a fishing trip, go whale or seal watching or just take in the harbor side views of pretty sailboats and yachts from a cozy table by the water. A complete list of boat excursions from Newport is found here.
As Barry Manilow sang in his number one hit romantic tune in 1978, “Time in New England took me away to long rocky beaches and you, by the bay.” When the autumn leaves fall, it is time to fall for fall in New England.
Sources:
Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau
www.bostonusa.com
Concord Chamber of Commerce
New England Travel Planner
GoNewport.com