Learning how to sew a mock French seam is a great alternative to the French seam if you are still looking to have a finished seam of professional quality. In this article, I will cover the basics of creating a mock French seam.
For me personally, I have found that the mock French seam is great for clothes I wear quite often. In order to sew a mock French seam, you should sew your seam line first. On most sewing patterns there will only be a solid, black line which is the cut line for the pattern piece; therefore, you should mark your seam allowance 5/8 in and sew your seam line.
Once you have your seam line sewn, you should trim the fabric an eighth of an inch from the fabric edge. Make sure you don’t trim no more than an eighth of an inch from the fabric’s edge because you are going to fold both raw edges in to sew.
After you trimmed the edge of the fabric you are going to press the fabric as flat as possible, and then you are going to open the seam allowance and press it open. Unlike with the French seam when you turned the fabric around to fold the fabric over, you are not going to do that with the mock French seam. When you have pressed your seam allowance open, you are going to fold both sides of the seam allowance inward about an eighth to a quarter of an inch so that the raw edges are facing the seam line. Press again and then sew a parallel line about an eighth to a quarter of an inch next to the seam line on the seam allowance. After you have sewed your seam allowance edges down, you should be left with a perfectly sewn mock French seam.