I love London. I love the culture, style, architecture, history, accents, shopping and yes, even the food and weather. I love it so much that I actually joined an Anglophile club just so I could talk more about London. During my single days, I even put in an ad on a dating site for a relocated Brit (not many responded). I go through painful withdrawals after a few years without visiting the city. I am also the designated go-to person for anyone who is traveling to London and needs suggestions. If you are preparing to visit London for the first time, congratulations! I’ll let you in on some secrets and recommendations so you don’t feel like a bumbling tourist.
London is an urban city with a myriad of neighborhoods full of individual character and style. Piccadilly Circus is similar to New York’s Times Square or Tokyo, Japan. The area is a hub with branching avenues and streets leading to the museums along the historic Trafalgar Square, West End’s Theatre District, high-end shopping on Regent and Bond Streets, and edgy Soho. The streets and walkways are jammed with pedestrians, cars, taxis and double-decker buses that can easily confuse a new visitor. My first time in London I took the tube (underground transit) from Heathrow Airport to the Piccadilly Circus stop. The ride is mostly above ground along the outskirts of the city and then remains below ground within Central London. The last view I saw was endless row houses with tiny yards. Nothing could prepare me for my next view as I climbed the endless stairs out of the station: illuminated billboards sprawled six stories high, 200 year old buildings, winding streets with unfamiliar signage, and incomprehensible chatter from visiting foreigners. I was disoriented, anxious and fascinated. And immediately in love.
Piccadilly Circus and nearby Leicester Square is considered to Londoners as tourist traps and usually avoided at all costs. I suggest visiting both quickly but then make your way to the less obvious attractions. Take Charing Cross Road north out of Leicester Square and visit the second-hand bookshops or detour east for some shopping at Covent Garden. My favorite time to shop here is in late autumn with a to-go coffee in hand. The central market houses little shops and individual stalls while street performers entertain in the piazza. If you get hungry, I highly recommend Wagamama just outside of the Garden on Streatham Street. The restaurant has several locations but I find this one to be my personal favorite. (Secret: Yaki Soba is the most popular but Amai Udon is very tasty).
Farther north of Covent Garden is Camden Town. I loved Camden during my college years. The town is rough around the edges with endless shops, thrift markets and pubs. The open-air markets along Camden Lock used to only be open on the weekends but are now available every day. At night the pubs feature live music and are filled with both locals and tourists enjoying the bands and lager. Whenever I visit London, I always make sure to keep a night open to visit Barfly in Camden. (Secret: Tube stations are not open all night. Camden Town and Chalk Farm Road stations close around 12.30am but licensed black cabs are nearby).
If you are in London on a Saturday, you need to visit the Portobello Road Market in Notting Hill. Take the tube to Notting Hill station and follow the crowd. Seriously. I don’t think I ever needed to remember which way to go because everyone was heading in the same direction. Walk along the infamous curved row of colorful houses to Chepstow Villas. The antiques market begins here and continues for 2 miles. The street is narrow and crowded so expect to move slowly. Jewelry and clothing is also for sale among the antiques. (Secret: most of the vendors only accept cash. Be careful how you carry your money. Although I never experienced it, pick pocketing can occur.) At the end of the antiques market is the fruit and vegetable market. Usually at this point I find a nearby café to rest and eat while admiring my new finds.
London has more than 240 museums and I wouldn’t be surprised if I’ve visited at least half of them. Not only because most museums in London are free (YES! FREE!) but I also love art and culture. The National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery both flank Trafalgar Square so if you plan to visit the square during the day then why not spend some time walking through these museums? Don’t forget to pop into the shops and grab a few postcards of your favorite artwork to send back to friends. Or keep them like I do. I spent a great deal of time at both museums when I first visited London through a college art and literature class excursion. Our class visited each almost every morning to learn about the art of the Romanticism era so if that is your favorite genre, you are in luck! However, both museums offer much much more than that. The National Gallery is ranked 3rd in the world. I will always hold both museums close to my heart but I also love the Tate Modern, Victoria & Albert, and the British Museum. I strongly recommend visiting all three including the new bridge that crosses over the River Thames to the Tate Modern.
Eight paragraphs in and I haven’t even mentioned Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, the Tower Bridge or the River Thames? Don’t worry, I haven’t forgotten. If you are standing in Trafalgar Square and look south on Whitehall, you can see Big Ben. (Look kids! Big Ben!) This was how I first saw the infamous great clock tower. I didn’t get to see it up close until that night when we went for a stroll along the Thames. I later learned that visiting Houses of Parliament at night is best. The intricate neo-gothic architecture is pronounced under the lights and the tranquil streets echo with Big Ben’s chime. (Secret: Overseas visitors can only tour Parliament on Saturdays and the clock tower is only open for UK residents. Book at least six months in advance. I recommend touring Westminster Abbey, which is nearby.)
I may receive some serious contesting but I find that the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace to be incredibly dull and overrated. Not to mention that you need to arrive early and probably won’t be able to see much anyway. If you like watching people march in uniform before slowly switching positions while stomping, then go for it. Otherwise, you can get the gist of it here. If you really want to tour inside Buckingham Palace, the tours operate every 15 minutes but avoid going during the Changing of the Guard as that is when all the tourists are in line. The afternoon hours are best. St. James Park and Green Park surround the Palace and are my favorite parks to visit. The landscape is exquisitely cultivated and brimming with friendly waterfowl and squirrels. Bobbies also frequent the area.
The Tower of London is located along the River Thames and its bridge is known as the Tower Bridge, not London Bridge. I’ve visited Tower of London twice. The second time was to appease my mother who was visiting for the first time. The Tower is actually a castle built in 1066 and was used as a prison. The tours highlight the torture chambers although only around 20 executions took place there. The crown jewels are also on display, complete with a 24-hour guard. The medieval castle is rich with fascinating history and is quite popular for children. But once you’ve seen it, you’ve seen it. The Tower Bridge is east of the new London Bridge (the old London Bridge is now in Arizona) and are nothing alike. London Bridge was rebuilt in 1967 as a prestressed concrete bridge with arches whereas the Tower Bridge is a suspension and bascule bridge (drawbridge) that was completed in 1894. Over 40,000 people cross the bridge each day although the best time to walk the bridge is at night.
Authentic English cuisine may not be the highest rated feature when visiting London but I’ve had some of the best meals in the local pubs. Common dishes such as fish and chips, ploughman’s lunch, meat pies and pasties can be found just about everywhere. Typical pubs do not have table service. You order drinks and food with the bar server, pay in advance and pick them up when ready. (Secret: tipping is not a custom at bars/pubs in the United Kingdom even if food is ordered. Save tipping for the actual restaurants.)
The best part about visiting London for the first time is discovering your own favorite qualities within the city. No matter how many recommendations you receive from friends or read online, the greatest experiences are what you encounter on your own. Don’t be afraid to create your own itinerary or take a detour. Oh, and the chocolate covered almonds at Harrods make for a great gift. If you don’t eat them all beforehand.