These instructions are made for use with the MyBabyvv Soft-Structure Baby Carrier pattern.
I am not responsible for the safety of your carriers.
This set of instructions is simply that; a set of instructions. I have done my absolute best to ensure that this set of instructions is very detailed and takes any and all safety issues into account, however, I cannot be held responsible for any products you create. There are many factors that could cause your carrier to be unsafe for use, such as choosing a poor quality thread, failing to double- or triple-stitch when indicated, choosing poor quality fabrics, or incorrect tension settings on your sewing machine. There are countless issues that could result in the carrier you create being unsafe. For this reason, I can, in no way, guarantee the strength or durability of the baby carriers you create using this pattern and am not responsible for any issues that arise from any carriers you create.
1. Cutting your fabric
Once your pattern pieces have been assembled, you will need to cut your materials.
Cut 1 body piece from the decorative fabric
Cut 1 body piece from the Warm and Natural
Cut 1 body piece from the solid color heavy-weight material
Cut 2 shoulder strap pieces from the solid color heavy-weight material
Cut 1 waist strap piece from the solid color heavy-weight material
If you are using a lightweight decorative material for the outer body piece or silk or minky for your inner body piece, then you will need to cut an additional body piece from your heavy weight material. This piece will be hidden inside of the carrier and will strengthen the carrier and provide extra support. For example, if you are using a light-weight decorative fabric, you will need one extra body piece cut from the solid color heavy-weight material. If you are using a light-weight decorative fabric and silk for the inner body, you will need two extra body pieces cut from the solid color heavy-weight material. These extra body pieces have not been calculated into how much fabric the carrier requires.
2. Cut your nylon webbing
You will need to cut and prepare your nylon webbing. Cut the following pieces.
Two 30 inch pieces of the 1.5 inch nylon webbing
Two 6 inch pieces of the 1.5 inch nylon webbing
Two 18 inch pieces of the 2 inch nylon webbing
3. Seal your nylon webbing
After your nylon webbing has been cut, it will need to be heat sealed to prevent it from fraying. You can do this by running each raw edge of nylon along a flame (such as from a lighter) but I have found it is much easier to dedicate an old pan to heat sealing nylon.
To use a pan, place it on the stove and turn it on high with nothing in it. Wait a few minutes for the pan to get hot and then very carefully roll the raw edges of the nylon on the bottom of the pan until melted.
Video: Sealing Nylon Webbing
Slideshow: Sealing Nylon Webbing
4. Preparing the inside portion of shoulder straps
Lay the shoulder strap piece flat and open it up along the fold, with the right-side of the material facing up. Take one piece of the 30 inch 1.5 inch nylon webbing and lay it across the upper portion of the shoulder strap piece. Approximately 2 inches of the nylon webbing should extend beyond the tapered edge of the shoulder strap piece. Make sure the nylon webbing is centered along this furthermost edge.
Fold the bottom half of the shoulder strap up over the nylon webbing. Line up all corners and then pin all sides except for the side opposite of the tapered end that the webbing extends from.
Repeat this step for the second shoulder strap piece.
Slideshow: Pinning and sewing the inside portion of the shoulder straps
5. Sewing the inside portion of the shoulder straps
Once the shoulder strap pieces are prepared, you are ready to sew. Begin sewing at the short edge next to the folded side of the fabric. Sew along the pinned area, leaving the bottom end of the strap open. Go over the seam you just made a second time.
To the right of the seam allowance where the nylon webbing protrudes from the strap, make a zig-zag stitch, going back and forth several times. This helps to secure your nylon webbing. Make sure this zig-zag stitch is in the seam allowance.
Repeat for the second shoulder strap piece.
Video: Sewing the inside portion of the shoulder straps
Slideshow: Pinning and sewing the inside portion of the shoulder straps
6. Turning the shoulder straps right-side out
You are now ready to turn the shoulder straps right-side out. This is done easiest by grabbing the nylon extending from the open end of the strap and pulling the fabric down over the 2 inch piece of nylon extending from the seam allowance. You may need to use a corner turned to turn all of the edges out.
Repeat for the second strap.
Video: Turning the shoulder straps
Slideshow: Turning the shoulder straps
7. Xbox stitch the nylon webbing end of the shoulder straps
Xbox stitches are very important when making a baby carrier. These stitches help provide the carrier with strength and security. It is very important that these stitches are used when making a carrier. Never skip xbox stitching, and always go over it multiple times.
You will begin your xbox stitch by sewing a straight line across the end of the strap, approximately 2 inches from the point where the nylon webbing extends from the shoulder strap. This line should sew through the nylon webbing on the interior of the strap.
Do not cut the thread. Turn the fabric and continue sewing along the edge of the material until you reach where you began the line. This should form a tapered square.
Go over this square twice more, making for a total of three seams.
Beginning at one corner of the square you have just sewn, sew a diagonal line to the opposite corner. Go over this line twice more, making for a total of three seams. Repeat this step, beginning at the other corner, creating an “x” across the box.
Repeat for the second strap.
Video: Xbox stitching the nylon webbing of the shoulder straps
Slideshow: Xbox stitching the nylon webbing of the shoulder straps
8. Insert and sew shoulder strap padding
You are now ready to add padding to the shoulder strap. If you are using batting, you will need to use multiple layers if padding. If you are using foam, depending on the thickness, you should only need one layer.
Use a pin to mark approximately 1 inch to 1 ½ inches down from the lowest border of the xbox stitch on your shoulder strap.
Cut two 12 inch by 4 ½ inch piece of batting or foam (remember to cut multiples if you’re using batting). Stuff the batting or foam into the straps, being sure that it remains flat, lining up with the seam in the shoulder strap. If you are having difficulty stuffing the batting or foam into the strap, consider using kitchen tongs or chopsticks to help move the batting or foam. Place a pin through the strap at the bottom of the batting or foam to keep it in place.
Beginning where the batting or foam begins, sew a line approximately 1 inch to 1 ½ inches from the edge of the seamed side of the shoulder strap. This does not need to be exact, however, it needs to be consistent. This seam will hold your shoulder padding in place.
Without flipping your strap over, sew another seam approximately 1 inch to 1 ½ inches to the left of the seam you made in the previous step.
Repeat for the second strap.
Video: Inserting and sewing padding into shoulder straps
Slideshow: Inserting and sewing padding into shoulder straps
9. Finish the shoulder strap
Beginning at the open end of the shoulder strap on the seamed side, sew a straight line along the edge until just before the shoulder padding seams.
Repeat on the unseamed side.
You will now create another xbox stitch at the very bottom of the strap. This xbox stitch will not be visible when the carrier is complete, but is very important to the safety of the carrier.
Sew the top edge side of your box approximately 1 inch to 1 ½ inches above the bottom of the straps. Turn your fabric and sew down making the first side of your box. Continue sewing along the bottom edge and then back up to complete the box. Go over this box twice more to make a total of three seams along the box.
As we did previously, sew two diagonal lines through the box to form an “x” going over each line twice, making a total of three seams on each line.
Repeat for the second strap.
Slideshow: Finishing the shoulder straps