Located in Germany’s Lower Rhine region near the border with the Netherlands, Kleve is not normally on the list of to-see German cities for tourists. During the 11th century, Kleve, known as Kleef in Dutch, and Cleves in French, was the capital of a sovereign country and later of a duchy. It is now the capital of Kleve District, part of the German state of North Rhine-Westphalia. The city was originally spelled Cleve until spelling reforms announced in the 1930s required it be spelled with a “K”. One can still find local signs, however, with the original spelling.
Little known outside Germany, Kleve has figured prominently in historical events of the Rhine region since the 11th century. The city got its start with construction of Castle Schwanenburg on Heidelberg Hill, which combined with the local village. It received city rights in 1242, was merged with the Duchy of Mark in 1368, and became a duchy in its own rights in 1417. Kleve is the home of Anne of Cleves (1515-1557) who was briefly wife to Henry VIII of England. During the Thirty Years War the city was under Dutch control, and in 1647 was placed under the administrative control of Johann Moritz von Nassau-Siegen. Moritz approved renovation of Schwanenburg in the baroque style and ordered the construction of extensive gardens that had a significant impact on the design of European gardens in the 17th century. His designs form a large part of the present-day city.
During World War II, Kleve suffered heavy aerial bombardment, and over 90% of its buildings were destroyed or seriously damaged. After the war, many of the buildings were reconstructed, and landmarks such as Schwanenburg and the Catholic parish church, the Stiftskirche, situated on the highest ground in the city, can be seen from surrounding communities.
Things to See and Do in Kleve
Although not on the A-list of German cities to visit, Kleve still gets lots of local tourism. This is primarily because of its proximity to famous battle sites of World War II, but locals also like the historic scenery. The extensive gardens and park areas that wind through the city make it a great place to walk and enjoy nature, and the traditional architecture, including many historic villas built by wealthy German vacationers during the city’s heyday, make it a photographer’s delight.
One of my favorites is the Alpine Walking Trail, which snakes through the city, providing a view of relatively untouched nature coexisting with a ménage of modern and traditional architecture. Bikers and hikers roam freely along the trail, and with the open friendliness that characterizes the region, interact in perfect harmony. Kleve is one of the few European cities that I’ve visited where strangers on the trail say guten tag to total strangers, and greet you with a smile.
The restored Castle Schwanenberg, or Swan Castle in English, is a must-see attraction. In addition to the beauty of the castle itself; from the promontory upon which it sits, one has a view of the entire area surrounding Kleve.
Tours are also available to the World War II battlefields in the area and the Reichswald Forest CGWC Cemetery.
In the city there are a number of restaurants and ale houses, serving a variety of local cuisine and local and regional German beers. At the Marusja you can buy Russian groceries and articles, all made in Germany.
Kleve is a hybrid city where German and Dutch customs and language exist side by side, with a warm and welcoming persona that makes it an unforgettable visit.
Getting There
Kleve is an easy two-hour drive from Heidelberg or a slightly longer drive from Amsterdam. Getting a taxi from the airport is easy, and the fares are reasonable. You can also rent a car at one of the airport kiosks and drive yourself.
You can also get to Kleve by train or bus from Heidelberg or Amsterdam
Where to Stay in Kleve
The Rilano Hotel Cleve (formerly the Golden Tulip Cleve)
Tichelstrasse 11
Kleve
http://www.goldentulip.com/EN/default.aspx
(Note: captions for photos) All photos by Charles Ray copyright Charles Ray
1. Castle Schwananberg sits on the highest promontory in Kleve
2. Many of the old buildings, damaged during WWII, have been restored, giving the town a sort of ‘Middle Ages’ charm.