Sewing Guide: French Seam

Learning how to sew a French seam is a great way to finish an edge on a fabric in a professional way. French seams can be found on a variety of garments: jackets and coats, jeans, and certain delicate fabrics such as chiffon and silk to prevent the edges from fraying or unraveling. In this article, I am going to discuss how to sew a French seam.

In order to sew a French seam you have to sew your seam line which you will have to transfer to the wrong side of your fabric using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. Your seam line should be 5/8 inch away from the fabric’s edge which is the standard seam allowance when sewing garments unless otherwise stated. Once you have sewn your seam line, you will need to get your dressmaker’s sheers and cut about half an inch of the seam allowance. Initially you want to be left with at least an eighth of an inch of the seam allowance.

After you have cut your seam allowance down to an eighth of an inch, you then are going to press your seam line flat. When you are satisfied with your pressing, you will then proceed to open the fabric (which should be on the wrong side) and fold it over until the right sides of the fabric are showing and the seam allowance is not visible. Again, take your fabric and press it flat. About a quarter of an inch from the edge you are going to sew another seam line which will hide your folded under seam allowance. When you press your seam again, you should be left with a quality finished French seam.


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