The French Quarter
The first day you arrive, you will want to check out Bourbon St., sip coffee at Café Du Monde, view of the Mississippi River, and wander around the shops. The quarter is only 12 blocks wide, so it is easy to get around on foot. There are lots of art galleries (mainly for tourists–the real galleries are in the Warehouse District on Julia Street) and antique shops to browse on Royal Street. Once the draw of Bourbon Street has worn off, try to venture out and see the rest of the area. Big Al Carson plays a lively set at the Funky Pirate on the quiet side of Bourbon St. For an upscale night on Bourbon, head over to Irvin Mayfield’s Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta. He is a local favorite, and is pretty cute, to boot.
The Marigny/Frenchmen Street
A short walk down Decatur Street towards Esplanade Ave. leads to Frenchmen St. A great little dive to stop along the way is Molly’s at the Market, if you are in the mood for a frozen Irish Coffee. Not only will you find tons of live jazz clubs all in one compact area, but a few decent places to eat, also. If you want to try some soul food, you must eat at the Praline Connection. The Marigny Brasserie is also highly regarded, but be prepared for a fancy meal and equally expensive bill.
Restaurants
The best place in the quarter for brunch is the Court of the Two Sisters at 613 Royal St. and one of my favorite places to eat for lunch is Cafe Amelie, also on Royal. The restaurant is a little inconspicuous from the street, but is situated in a beautiful courtyard with a garden. I always get the shrimp and macque-choux. The Central Grocery on Decatur is a quick eatery featuring muffaletta sandwiches, a New Orleans creation by Italian immigrant workers. The Napoleon House at 500 Chartres is great for either lunch or dinner. Sample the gumbo or one of their po-boys. It is the best place in the city to get a Pimm’s cup. The best and widest selection of fresh local seafood in the city can be found at GW Fins, but be prepared for a slightly more upscale atmosphere. Fiorella’s fried chicken and Angeli’s Italian food, both on Decatur, serve the late-night drinking crowd. For a real dive, sober up at the Clover Grill on Bourbon St. if you need a grease fix.
Bars
The bar scene on Bourbon Street usually focuses on Hand Grenades, Hurricanes, daiquiris, and fruity concoctions from hell. However, most bars in New Orleans have decent cocktails, and all serve the local Abita Amber beer and it’s seasonal variations. For upscale cocktails, have a drink at the rotating Carousel Bar at the Monteleone Hotel. The bartenders there are true professionals who know the historic drinks. The Bombay Club has an infinite number of Martini variations and a great atmosphere–sophistication of a time long ago. The Absinthe House may seem slightly dumpy, but is the best place to sample the fabled potion. Once you have run out of money, the Bourbon Street Blues Company will economically imbibe you with their two-for-one specials on the second floor.
Jazz Clubs
DBA is the swanky spot on Frenchmen St., and consequently, host of some pretty good acts. Their weekend headliner bands usually have a cover charge, unlike the other spots which usually only require a drink purchase. Snug Harbor is another must-see club, along with the tiny Apple Barrel and Spotted Cat.