Think of Peru and you probably don’t picture penguins, but travel a few hours south of Lima, the country’s capital city, and you might be surprised.
The Islas Ballestas are a series of small, rocky islands that house a diverse collection of marine wildlife, including the Humboldt penguin. The penguins, only found along the coasts of Chile and Peru, share the islands with a massive sea lion colony and over 150 different types of seabirds.
Of the thousands of birds that live on the islands, the most populous is the Guanay cormorant, the main producer of commercial guano. Visitors are also likely to see the large and goofy-looking Peruvian pelican and, of course, the tiny tuxedo-wearing Humboldt penguin. The latter is named after the frigid Humboldt Current that runs alongside the western coast of South America. Its pulls cold water and nutrients up from the ocean floor to create a rich ocean ecosystem.
How To Get There
The Islas Ballestas are off the Paracas shoreline south of Lima and easily visited during a day or weekend trip from Lima. A three-to-four hour bus ride through the desolate desert landscape of coastal Peru gets you to the town of Pisco, and the ocean is just a short taxi ride away. Several buses simply drop passengers off on the side of the highway and continue on down the Panamericana highway. However, Cruz del Sur, one of the best Peruvian bus companies, has a station in Pisco, making it the most convenient and comfortable option. Their Lima station is located on a main road called Javier Prado. You can take a taxi direct to the station, or take the Lima public transport system, the Metropolitano, to the Javier Prado stop and walk about five minutes east up Javier Prado.
You can also choose to book everything through a tour company. Numerous travel agencies offer one-day Paracas tours from Lima, while many others include a day at the islands within longer Peru tour packages.
How Much Does It Cost?
Because the islands are part of a national reserve, the only way to visit is via an officially guided boat tour from the Paracas dock. For around $15-20 USD, you can board an open boat for a 2-hour tour of the islands with a bilingual guide. Tips are not mandatory. Bus tickets to Paracas from Lima vary depending on the bus company you choose, but the average price range is between $10-25 USD one way.
If you choose to book with a travel company with English speaking staff, expect to pay significantly more.
What To Expect
The best time to tour the islands is before noon, so taking an early morning bus out of Lima is highly recommended.
None of the tour boats have cabins, so be prepared for cold winds and a bit of spray if the seas are rough. Sweaters, ponchos, and sunglasses are recommended. On the way to the islands you’ll pass a 420-foot high Candelabra geoglyph, a mysterious etching in the side of the desert hillside similar to the Nazca Lines.
Due to environmental regulations visitors are not permitted on the islands, but skilled boat maneuvering allows up-close views of the wildlife.