The second largest city in the southern African nation of Zimbabwe, Bulawayo is known as the ‘City of Kings.’ Bulawayo, located in Matabeleland South Province, in the country’s southwest, was the capital of the Ndebele State when Lobengula, son of King Mzilikazi, took the throne in 1872. Initially, Lobengula had his royal town on a ridge 14 miles from the present day city, but he eventually moved to the present location. The name Bulawayo means “the place of slaughter” in the Ndebele language, in honor of Lobengula’s struggle against rivals to attain the throne.
The British Union Jack flag was raised over the city on November 4, 1893, after Lobengua’s forces were defeated by English cavalry, and the area came under the dominion of the British South Africa Company. This date, in European and Zimbabwean history, represents the official founding of Bulawayo as a town.
The city has lived up to its name many times since its founding. It was the site of the first uprisings against white rule in 1896-97. The armed struggle against the regime of Ian Smith in the 1960s after his unilateral declaration of independence (UDI) was begun by Ndebele fighters under Joshua Nkomo, an Ndebele from this area. After independence in 1980, the area around Bulawayo was also the site of the slaughter of tens of thousands of Nkomo’s Zimbabwe African Peoples Union (ZAPU) supporters by the forces of the Zimbabwean African National Union (ZANU) in an operation called ‘Gukurahundi,’ which still evokes painful memories for many of Bulawayo’s residents.
As Much a Symbol as a Place
Its strategic location, linking Zimbabwe with South Africa, Zambia, and Botswana, and the fact that its located on some of the most ancient rock on earth, makes Bulawayo as much a symbol as a place. During the 1800s it was a symbol of white determination not to relinquish control to blacks. In the 1960s it saw the beginning of the eventual end of white rule, and later the battle between the dominant Shona people and the Ndebele for control of the newly independent state.
As a natural link between Zimbabwe and its trading neighbors, it became an industrial hub. Even though decades of mismanagement have eroded the industrial base of the city, it remains the site of Zimbabwe’s annual international trade fair.
A Hidden Jewel
Bulawayo gets little mention in tour guides for Zimbabwe, with places like Great Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls taking pride of place. Despite this, along with decades of neglect from the central government in Harare, it offers some hidden jewels for visitors.
Essentially a military town, Bulawayo’s streets, unlike the streets in other cities and towns in the country, are broad and laid out in a neat geometric pattern. The legend is that when the streets were laid out, Cecil Rhodes decreed that a wagon and a span of oxen could turn around.
Bulawayo is also the site of Zimbabwe’s oldest golf course, Bulawayo Country Club, which was established in 1895, just two years after the city was founded. Many of the original buildings from the colonial era still stand, and look much as they did when they were constructed.
Bulawayo is centrally located in the southwest, making it easy to get to Victoria Falls, Hwange National Park, Matobo National Park (where Cecil Rhodes is buried), and the Zambezi Valley.
Getting There
Bulawayo is located about five hours drive from Harare and Victoria Falls, both of which are served by international airlines. When the national airline, ZimAir, is flying, there are also flights daily from Harare. The main border points with South Africa and Botswana are also within a few hour’s drive.
Where to Stay
There are a number of hotels within the city proper, including a Holiday Inn, the Bulawayo Club, and a number of luxury guest houses. Outside the city, particularly on the Bulawayo-Victoria Falls highway, are a large number of safari camps and lodges located in or near the national parks and game preserves. For an unforgettable stay, The Nesbitt Castle, located in a wooded suburban area of the city, is highly recommended. Built by an eccentric South African in 1871 as a replica of a 12th century medieval castle, it offers a look at the history of the nexus between Africa and Europe.
The Nesbitt Castle
6 Percy Avenue, Hillside
Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
(263) 9-282-735/6
Skype: nesbitt.castle
Website: http://www.nesbittcastle.co.zw