More than 3 million people each year visit Agra to see what is perhaps the grandest architectural wonder of the world-the Taj Mahal. Many tourists are so excited to be able to view this monument and take the perfect picture, they are quite surprised by the logistical and bureaucratic challenges, and other nuisances on their way to the Taj Mahal. Unfortunately, Agra is rife with beggars, scammers and touts that can ruin your vacation. The worst of these pesky nuisances is the “guide.”
There are two types of guides in Agra. The authorized, licensed, educated guide speaks several languages (including German, French, Spanish, Mandarin and Japanese) and is knowledgeable about the history, architecture and stories surrounding the Taj Mahal. You can find his information from either your hotel concierge, or your travel guide. Be advised, he gets booked months in advance.
The other is the ubiquitous guide, extremely friendly at first, then progressively becoming more annoying and obnoxious. He will invade your personal space, gawk at you or your female companions, talk nonsense in thickly accented English, want to borrow your sunglasses or cap, and try to sell you stuff you don’t want. Finally, he will insist on being part of every photograph you take in front of the Taj. When you tell him to take a picture of you and your spouse, his buddy will quietly sneak up and stand behind you. Your best bet is to identify and disengage this type of guide.
The onslaught will begin as soon as you exit your vehicle in the parking lot. An extremely friendly man will start a conversation with you or begin escorting you to the eco-friendly cab area. Unless you strongly discourage him (repeatedly) in the first few minutes, this person will become your de facto guide and you must pay a hefty sum (INR 500-1000, roughly $10-20) to get rid of him.
Then you will encouter the footmuff seller. This person, often a child 10 years old, will first give you footmuffs as a gift. If you accept without bargaining, or asking the price, you will have to pay whatever he asks, which will vary based on the seller’s assessment of your financial status and savvy. INR 10 (about 25 cents) is a fair price for a pair of footmuffs although foreign tourists can expect to pay INR 50-150.
The distance to the Taj Mahal from the parking lot is a 10 minute walk (or a 5 minute ride). Most likely, the driver of your parked car will recommend an eco-cab, perhaps because he wants you to avoid beggars and other nuisances, or perhaps he has received a commission from the eco-cab driver. Based on your negotiating skills, you can expect to pay INR 50-1000 for a 5 minute ride. If you decide to hail a cab, you will need to make sure it has only one driver. If a driver’s friend or apprentice, or your footmuff seller’s friend rides with you in the front and you do not tell him to dismount, he has become your guide and you must pay to get rid of him.
Your cab ride will end a hundred meters short of the Taj Mahal complex entrance. Here you will be offered samples of handcrafted miniature Taj Mahals and pill boxes made from marble and semi precious inlaid stones. Unfortunately, unless you are an expert, you may not be able to judge its value (or its material) and you risk being seriously ripped off. The markup will likely be proportional to the distance of your homeland from Agra. Your best bet for buying Taj related memorablia is a government approved handicrafts store, in the main shopping areas of Agra, Jaipur or Delhi.
Admission to the Taj Mahal involves standing in line to buy tickets. Here too, you will encounter friendly men who will walk up to you to help you buy tickets at the discounted Indian rate. You might be able to save on the tickets (although they will be checked again), however, you will have bought yourself a guide.
Since admission for Indian nationals is very affordable, guides will be available for pestering even inside the Taj garden. They will offer to take your photograph, or invade your personal space with a running commentary. If you have been strong so far, do not cave in and maintain your disinterested and aggressive stance until the guide has left your presence. You will realize after a few more steps that you are in front of Taj Mahal. Take a deep breath and marvel at the most beautiful architectural gem in the world. The pests are gone, and you have yourself and your family to enjoy and take in its magnificient view.
More on the Taj Mahal: Local Travel Tips
$1 roughly equals 60 INR (Indian Rupee)