Traveling Hwy 14A and Lovell, Wyoming

I have traveled across the Big Horn Mountains via Hwy 14 many times. It is a beautiful drive and you have a chance to see wildlife like Moose and Elk along the way. My wife and I decided to celebrate the Fourth of July later this year on the 5th and our journey across Hwy 14 yielded new results on that day. We decided to take our Mini Cooper for a day drive to Lovell, Wyoming across the mountains and take a different route along 14A instead of the mainstream route of Hwy 14.

You still enter the Big Horns on the east side by only three routes. You can take Hwy 16 out of Buffalo, Wyoming for a route to Yellowstone which is claimed to be more scenic and less of a climb, but I don’t agree. You can enter the Big Horns through Sheridan, Wyoming on a dirt road called Red Grade. This road is not recommended for large cars or trailers. It is best used with four wheel drives, jeeps, and SUVs. Or you can go up to Dayton and enter the mountains on Hwy 14. From Dayton you will enter a gentle grade of switchbacks that will take you up to 9000 ft quickly from the bottom of the mountains. The air gets cooler quick, so pack some light jackets and long pants even in the summer time. We started at 70 degrees at the bottom and came to Burgess Junction (the top) at noon and it was 49 degrees not counting the wind factor.

As you go along Hwy 14 you will find some of the most beautiful wilderness in the world. There are plenty of places to camp, fish, and just watch nature. The only restaurants that I have found across the mountains is Big Bear Lodge and two or three smaller venues. Once you pass Burgess Junction, you have a chance to stay on Hwy 14 or travel down 14A in which we chose. It was a good choice. The grade down the mountain is at a breath taking 10% with switchbacks that made the Cooper fun to drive. Many times my wife urged me to slow down, but the drive was fun and I had a blast taking our little convertitable down the hill.

Along the way is the Medicine Wheel pullover. Here you will find a Native American ground ritual area that is amazing to see. It is a mile and a half walk from the parking lot and the elevation is around 10,000 feet, so dress warm and be prepared for a climb. It is worth the effort. The other attraction along 14A is Five Stream Falls. We didn’t have a chance to visit there but we marked it on our to do list for the next drive through.

The road winds quickly to the Big Horn Basin which stretches across about fifty miles to the Tetons and Yellowstone. Here you will find the city of Lovell, Wyoming. We were both starving and after riding through town we found out we only had a couple of places to eat. We decided on Swithback Grill located off the main drag of town. The main drag seemed to be the only drag of this town of a population of just over 2000.

The cafe was classic. There were only about five tables and you had to walk to the counter to give your order and pick up your food. There was nothing on the menu above ten dollars and there was a suprising array of choices on the menu. I had a seafood basket of fried catfish and popcorn shrimp that came with fries and coleslaw. My wife dined (and I say that loosely) on a chicken finger basket. Both baskets were way too much for either of us to eat so we bundled the rest in a to go container to take to our furry children who we left at home. I highly suggest this little cafe for two reasons. The first is that is is truly good and cheap. The second is that you are going to have to drive to Cody or back across the mountains to Sheridan to get a meal of substance.

If you are visiting Yellowstone Park, remember that when crossing the Big Horns, there are no gas stations for almost 60 miles. You will need warm clothing, even in August and that the elevation goes up quickly. Gas up and eat in Sheridan before you leave or you will have some miss meal cramps and an expensive road side assistance bill if you don’t.


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