At some point, you are going to need to clean your chain. Many cyclists avoid this, since it is messy, dirty, greasy work, but if you never clean your bike chain, not only does it leave those prints on your calf, but it wears itself and your gears out. While the chain might be cheap, worn gears can get really expensive, and nobody wants to be stuck with an easily avoidable big bill from their bicycle. Besides, who wants a squeaky, stiff chain on their bike?
Get Your Materials
Before you get started, you want to gather some materials. I like to have 3 rags, two thin and one thick rag to soak up the worst grime. A square of denim will work for the thick rag. An old toothbrush works wonders for cleaning hard to reach places. You also want to have a lubricant on hand for the chain once it is clean. Finally, cotton swabs are helpful, but not needed on every routine cleaning.
Some things you don’t need: degreasers, WD-40, or any other chemicals. Keep it simple. Degreasers can do as much harm as good on a chain, and WD-40 has absolutely no place in bike repair aside from loosening rusted in parts. It is not a lubricant suitable for bicycle chains.
Get Your Chain and Clean It
In general, I prefer to remove my chain from the bicycle. This can all be done on the bicycle, but it pays to have a stand if you want to do this on the bike, since a stand will make working much easier. Removing a bike chain may require a chain link opener, but you probably have a newer chain with a fast-release mechanism. Use the quick release links if possible.
Some guides recommend that you then soak your chain in degreaser overnight. This is not recommended by the manufacturers or by this guide. set in bearing lubricant deep inside the chain can be displaced by this process, and you will accelerate the wear of your chain. Instead, start with the thick rag. Wipe off as much garbage as you can from the chain with the thick rag. Then, move on to the first light rag. By the time you are done, the light rag should have cleaned off all loose grit from the chain.
Use the old toothbrush to scrub off anything your rag couldn’t get. With good maintenance, this shouldn’t be much. Work slowly and rotate the chain in your hands to check all angles.
Clean your Bike, Relubricate, and Replace the Chain
Now, address your bike. Use cotton swabs to clean any gunk between gears. There might be a lot of it. Take your time and do it right. If you use wax based lulbricants, old wax accumulation can take a bit of pushing to dislodge. If you use an oil lubricant, expect to see serious black grease in there.
Now lubricate the clean chain. Work the chain from above, placing a drop of lubricant in each bearing. Flex the chain as it absorbs the oil for more penetration. Now, wipe it off with the clean light rag and repeat the process. Ensure that all angles got some lubricant, but wipe the chain off once you are done. Remember, excess lubricant is just a magnet for grit on your bike. You don’t want excess there. Wipe off as much as you can. The important lubricant is between the parts, not on the parts of your bike chain.
If you haven’t already, replace the chain on your bike. I say the “if you haven’t already” to denote that many people prefer to lubricate the chain when it is on the bicycle. This simplifies the process, but it risks getting oil all over your bike. If you do this, lay rags all over the bike parts to avoid splashing lubricants on them.
Final Notes
Picking a lubricant is a personal decision. I use a dry, wax based lubricant not because it is superior, but because it leaves less mess. For optimal chain life, pick a lubricant that lasts under your riding conditions. Be sure to clean and lubricate your bike at least twice per season, and don’t let your chain sit when wet or when the lubricant is removed.
Sources:
SheldonBrown.com: Chain Maintenance
REI: Maintaining Your Bike Chain