These beautiful tortoises are the third largest tortoise in the world. They can grow up to 36 inches long and weigh between 100-200 pounds. They have been gaining popularity as a pet in the United States as well as places around the world. Sadly, a lot of the people who take care of these animals fail to realize that there is a lot of outdated information out there. The old ways of caring for these animals as hatchlings was to keep them dry, no soaking, and no water bowl. It was believed that they got all the water they needed from their food. This, and poor diet, has caused a shell deformity called pyramiding (a lumpy, irregular growth of the shell). Hatchling and yearling Sulcatas need a lot of moisture and a proper diet to keep them happy and healthy.
Indoor Housing: The more space you can provide for your Sulcata, the better. You can build a tortoise table out of wood. Christmas tree totes, large plastic totes and aquariums also work really well for hatchlings. Some people prefer not to use aquariums because they get hot and hold humidity. I think these are great reasons to use an aquarium. You don’t need a really high watt heat bulb and it’s easy to keep the humidity up. The biggest space you are able to provide is best. Sulcatas walk for miles in the wild looking for food so the more space you can provide them to walk around the happier they will be.
Substrate: There are many debates as to what is the best substrate to use for a Sulcata. Many pet shops have them in dry conditions and advise people that this is the best way to keep them. The substrates that are best include; cypress mulch, coco coir, orchid bark, sphagnum moss or just plain old organic soil. Pick one or any combination of these. Whatever you choose to use in your enclosure, keep it moist. Keep the humidity in the enclosure as close to 80% as you can and you will avoid dehydration and have a happy, healthy tortoise. You should avoid sand, wood shavings, corn cob bedding, newspaper, walnut shell bedding, alfalfa pellets, and any type of hay. These substrates do not hold moisture and the tortoise can potentially eat them and cause impaction, which can be deadly.
Hide Boxes: It’s important to keep at least one humid hide box in your enclosure. This not only helps keep the tortoise hydrated, but it also helps them feel secure. It gives them a dark warm place to get away from things. You don’t have to go out and buy some expensive box from a pet store. A simple plastic shoe box or Tupperware container with a lid will work fine. Leave the lid on and cut a hole in the side large enough for your tortoise to easily get in and out. Put a damp substrate in the bottom to keep it humid inside. Keep this hide on the warm side of the enclosure. Coco coir or sphagnum moss is a good choice for a hide because they can stay warm and damp without growing mold.
Heat: It is important to have a nice temperature gradient in your enclosure. This allows your tortoise to adjust their body temperature as needed. Like other reptiles, they need to have a basking spot to get warm. This helps them with digestion, growth and proper health. You should have a warm side, a cool side, and a basking spot. The warm side should be between 80-90 degrees. The cool side should be between 75-80 degrees. Directly under the basking spot it should be between 100-110 degrees, but only in this one spot of the enclosure. Since the enclosure is going to be moist, you don’t want the temperatures to drop very far below 80 degrees. This will prevent the tortoise from getting a respiratory infection from the moisture. As long as they are kept warm this won’t be a problem. As long as your tortoise gets regular outside time, you do not need any type of UV lights. If it is going to be kept inside, or gets less than 20-30 minutes of sun a day, you need to have a Mercury Vapor Bulb. These bulbs mimic the suns UV rays which is very important for the health of your tortoise. DO NOT use the compact coil UV bulbs. These bulbs have been known to cause eye problems and can even lead to blindness.
Food: A large variety of food is important for a healthy tortoise. Weeds and grasses should make up a large portion of their diet. Dandelion, filaree, mallow, sow thistle, mulberry, rose hibiscus, grape leaves, hibiscus and rose flowers, opuntia cactus, mazuri, spring mix, and leafy greens are all good choices. Avoid feeding fruits period. There is no reason that a tortoise needs to eat fruit. Their bodies were not made to process the high sugar content in fruits. Spinach, broccoli, cabbage, and ice burg lettuce should be fed infrequently, if at all. When your tortoise reaches a foot or so in length you can try introducing dry grass but babies usually won’t eat it.
Water: Keep a water dish in the enclosure at all times. Make sure it is big enough that your tortoise can get inside and soak if they want to. Hatchlings should be soaked in warm water daily for 20-30 minutes. The water should be deep enough to reach the middle of their shell (where the top and bottom meet). The usually use the bathroom in their soaking water, so it will most likely need to be changed during the soak. This helps keep them hydrated and prevent pyramiding.