Why Are My Chickens’ Combs Turning Black?

In general, chickens are fairly resistant to cold temperatures depending upon the breed. A list of cold-hardy breeds can be found on on this chart maintained by Sage Hen Farm. Even the most cold-hardy breeds, however, have limits to the temperatures they can withstand. Furthermore, although a chicken’s feather do a pretty good job of insulating the bird, even cold-hardy chicken breeds can experience frost-bite to exposed areas like combs and feet.

Chicken coops require some airflow even in the winter, but the idea is to make sure that the chickens are not exposed directly to winds blowing through the coop in the winter. Coops that are either too drafty or which provide insufficient airflow can both be causes of frostbite in chickens. Ideally, airflow paths should be overhead, and the lower part of the coop well insulated against drafts, so that chickens are not roosting directly in the breeze. Airflow is important for two reasons. First, chickens need to breathe and being cooped up in a confined space with insufficient airflow , especially one in which chicken excrement is adding ammonia to the air, can quickly result in a poisonous atmosphere. Second, airflow helps pull the accumulated moisture from the breath of the chickens out of the coop.

Excess moisture can also lead to frostbite during cold weather. Moisture in the air will tend to condense on surfaces such as a chicken’s comb. As it later evaporates, it cools the comb down very effectively, and can cause frostbite in a matter of minutes.

To prevent frostbite in the feet, the chicken needs the opportunity to roost off the cold ground. The roost should be something broad like a 2X4 which allows the entire foot to covered by the chicken’s body and feathers when the chicken roosts. Smaller, round roosts may require the chickens foot to wrap around the perch, leaving toes exposed underneath the roost. The most important thing, however, is to make sure that the chickens have plenty of roosting space off the ground. The ground will suck heat out of the chickens feet all night long.

Another cause of frostbitten feet in chickens is lack of snow-free areas in their yard. Chickens can walk through shallow or hard-packed snow, and may show no harm at all from short term exposure. If they are out in the snow for too long, though, the cold will eventually catch up with them, putting their feet at risk of frostbite. If the yard or run area is not covered, shovel an area sufficient for the chickens to get out and walk around out of the snow. Also consider adding wind breaks to provide shelter from strong winter winds blowing through the chicken yard. During heavy snowfall, it may be best to keep the chickens inside the coop. Their normal reaction to snow is to huddle down and wait it out. As a result, I’ve heard of cases of chickens being buried by falling snow and freezing to death before they are found.

A comb with blackened tips after exposure to cold temperatures is a tell-tale sign of frostbite. At the point where the comb has turned black and appears scab-like in texture, the tissue is dead and is beyond saving. The chicken, however, assuming that it is not continually exposed to the conditions that caused the frostbite, will generally survive a frostbitten comb. The blackened areas will eventually simply fall off, giving the affected chicken the appearance of having been dubbed or trimmed. Owners just need to watch for any signs of infection as the combs heal. Loss of appetite and general lethargy are bad signs and should warrant a call to the veterinarian.

Frostbitten feet, however, are a different matter. Blackened toes or feet that result from frostbite, will also likely fall off eventually. However, the chickens mobility including its ability to get to food and water, rest on a roost, and avoid being harmed by chicken coop bullies will be severely compromised especially for the first few months after the frostbite occurs. Infection is also a more serious risk with the feet since they are in direct contact with the ground and the litter of the coop floor.

During periods of extreme cold, a heat lamp can be added to the coop. The rule of thumb is that most cold-hardy chicken breeds can survive at temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit below zero. That doesn’t take into account wind chill. If temperatures are getting remotely close to that level in your area, consider a fire-resistant heat source designed for chicken coops. Chicken coop fires are quite common in New England as heat lamps can easily ignite shavings or straw. Make sure that any heat source is secured and cannot fall to the coop floor or ignite combustible materials in the coop. Also make sure that it is not possible for chickens to attempt to roost on the heat lamp or other heat source.

Less severe frostbite in either feet or combs, may appear as blistered skin. Combs may appear dull and bluish in color in the early stages. If any signs of frostbite appear, try to fix the cause of the problem, whether it is sealing the coop from low level drafts, adding a safe heat source, or proving the chickens with a clear, dry run area. Affected birds will do better if kept in a warmer, not too hot, area until healed. Don’t overheat them suddenly, room temperature is more than warm enough.

Chicken breeds with smaller, more compact combs such as the Ameraucana or Chantecler will be more resistant to frostbite than breeds like the Delaware or Leghorn which have large, single combs. Proper housing, though, is the best way to prevent frostbite. Access to food and unfrozen water is also important as it takes extra calories to keep warm during cold temperatures and it’s easy to overlook the fact that the chickens’ usual water sources may freeze within an hour of being set out for them, denying them any access to drinking water during cold periods. Dehydration is a top killer of chickens during winter months.

Related Content:
Backyard Chickens for Beginners: Basic Requirements
My Experience with Cornish X Hybrid Chickens
Profitable, Small Backyard Chicken Flocks


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