While Machu Picchu has received renewed popularity with the 100 year anniversary of its re-discovery, there are other incredible places to see and stay in Peru’s Sacred Valley region.
Ollantaytambo is a town in Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas, about mid-way between Cusco and the Machu Picchu citadel. If you are sensitive to high altitude, the city is at a lower elevation than Cusco and is a good way to acclimatize yourself to the region. Many travelers prefer to fly into Cusco and then proceed immediately to the Sacred Valley to stay for their first nights, then later return to Cusco after some time getting used to the high altitude.
Getting there
Peru is easily accessible from the U.S. via several air carriers. I’ve used my American Airlines Advantage miles, you can get a first / business class ticket for 60,000 miles, round-trip from the U.S., the same mileage requirement as a coach ticket to Europe. Also check with low cost carrier Spirit Airlines, they also offer direct service from several U.S. cities.
Lima is the capital of Peru and most international visitors will start here. From Lima you can take a three hour flight to Cusco. From Cusco you can take the Perurail train to Ollantaytambo, it’s the same line that goes on to Machu Picchu and tickets are available for purchase online. We’ve also taken a taxi from Cusco, the cost is about $50 and your hotel may provide transport.
Stay
I like El Albergue. It’s directly next to, almost a part of the train station and central for all your activities. It’s run by an ex-pat American and they are there and ready to help set up whatever adventure you want, from horseback riding to Inca trail hiking. Rooms are about $75 per night and include breakfast and the use of their sauna, a great way to relax after a day of discovery.
The hotel’s Cafe Mayu is a wonderful restaurant offering surprisingly good, well-prepared food and is worth a visit even if you aren’t staying in the hotel. Not fancy, but a bit upscale and a good alternative to the backpacker cafes found in the area.
El Albergue
At the Ollantaytambo train station, Ollantaytambo, Peru
elalbergue.com
See
While the main site at Ollantaytambo is called a fort, it was probably an unfinished temple complex. The work was stopped right around the time of the Spanish invasion of Peru and a key battle between the Incas and the Spanish Conquistadors was fought on the site.
Take some time to walk around the town itself, it’s a rare example of a living, preserved Inca town. The houses, streets, everything is close to how it was in the time of the Incas. Note the irrigation channels still bringing water from the mountains.
There is a small crafts and souvenir market at the base of the fort. Although there is a lot of climbing, be sure to climb to the top and check out the unfinished temple and enormous stone tablets at the top. As with other sites, it’s good to hire a guide, but be sure they speak good English so you can understand the information. At the top the finished stonework is a fine example of Inca workmanship. The large one and two ton stones are fitted together perfectly, without mortar, and still so tight you can’t even slip a piece of paper between the rocks.
Eat
Puka Rumi is a great restaurant for a nice, sit-down meal. The food is amazing and offers a fresh take on some Peruvian classics. The pepper steak with blue cheese is a great choice. The town is small and you can walk here any of the local hotels or the train station.
Freddy Sherman is a world traveler and editor of the travel blog travel4people.com. You can follow him on twitter, @thefredsherman
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