Shortly after Sir Walter Raleigh stepped foot on land that would eventually become a part of the state of North Carolina, the first grape vines were planted, and by the time William McKinley won reelection in November of 1900, North Carolina led the nation in wine production (media.VisitNC.com, 2011). Of course, in 1919, Prohibition put a stop to that, and for the next fourteen years, North Carolinians indulged in other pursuits.
The practice has since bounced back admirably, however. According to the state tourism board for North Carolina, there are now more than one hundred wineries, and more than four hundred vineyards, within the confines of the state (media.VisitNC.com, 2011).
Many of the wineries of North Carolina produce Muscadine wines, from the scuppernong grape. These are sweet wines, often nauseatingly so. I don’t care for Muscadine wine, and so I seldom partake of the fruit of North Carolinian vines.
I have discovered, however, a rare exception. Quite by accident, actually. In search of a quiet, out of the way place to enjoy a nice meal, my spouse and I encountered a small bed and breakfast in the tiny hamlet of Warsaw, North Carolina. We have yet to figure out why anyone would choose to vacation in such a place, but we agree that the restaurant attached to the inn is exceptional. The food was quite good, and, as a happy circumstance, we were surprised to find that they have their own small winery on the grounds.
We were at first quite skeptical, feeling as we do about the scuppernong. Ultimately, however, we threw caution to the winds and participated in one of their private wine tastings. This experience is, contradictorily, informally formal. It is seldom necessary to schedule an appointment for a private tasting, unless the small gift shop on the premises is unusually busy. However, each wine is presented in a fresh glass with a flourish, accompanied by an assortment of cheeses to cleanse your pallet between sips, and a brief explanation of the wine’s particular provenance.
The Country Squire Winery has several house wines of the type that would grace the wine list in many a local restaurant, but it also features many premium blends that fall most accurately within the category of dessert wines. The latter selections convey a sweeter flavor than many wines. On par, really, with a quality Riesling.
Their house wines include a Cabernet, a Pinot Grigio, a Shiraz, and a Chardonnay. I typically prefer red wines, and of these, I found the Shiraz most suited to my taste. They call it their Rustic Tavern Red. On the palate, this wine is medium-bodied and silky, with a dry finish and tannins that linger on the tongue.
Oddly enough, however, given our aversion to sweeter wines, my spouse and I have found that we prefer their premium blends. Our favorites are the Apple Orchard Riesling, the Black Knight Cabernet, and the Sweet Scottish Heather Chardonnay.
The Apple Orchard Riesling imparts a fresh, crisp flavor, with just a slight hint of tart Granny Smith apples. It is light-bodied, with a light, pure finish. It is at its best when served deeply chilled.
The Black Knight Cabernet is, of course, a red wine. But with a deep flavor of sweet black berries, the flavor is much purer when served chilled. It shares some characteristics of a Syrah, with its rich blackberry aroma, but this varietal is slightly too acidic to my taste when served at room temperature. Chilled, the sweetness of the berries overwhelms the bitter tannins, and the wine finishes much more smoothly.
Finally, the Sweet Scottish Heather Chardonnay is graced with the delicious flavor of juicy peaches, with hints of mangoes and melon. As a rule, I bear an intense dislike for Chardonnay; the floral accents and buttery aroma that so appeal to many wine lovers leave me completely cold. This variety, however, places a premium on a sweet, fruity flavor that stops well short of the cloying sweetness of many dessert wines. When chilled, it imparts a pure, cleanly refreshing flavor to the palate.
It has been our tradition for many years to make the hour-long drive to the Country Squire at least once during the year, typically in the autumn months. We’ve yet to make the trip this year, but I’m looking forward to it with a great deal of anticipation. The place is hard to find, off the beaten track and nestled back amongst old-growth oaks, but it is very much worth the difficulty.