How iS carbon used in medicine
Carbon nanotubes (CNTs) are very prevalent in today's world of medical research and are being highly researched in the fields of efficient drug delivery and biosensing methods for disease treatment and health monitoring. [ Source: http://www.chacha.com/question/how-is-carbon-used-in-medicine ]
More Answers to "How iS carbon used in medicine"
- How iS carbon used in medicine
- Carbon nanotubes (CNTs) are very prevalent in today's world of medical research and are being highly researched in the fields of efficient drug delivery and biosensing methods for disease treatment and health monitoring.
- What Is Carbon Dioxide Used For In Medical Operations??
- There are many , for example low-concentration can be used to stimulant rational.
Related Questions Answered on Y!Answers
- Using carbon & zeolite alongside fluke medicine?
- Q: I am currently treating my fishies for suspected gil flukes. I am using Sterazin.I have removed all carbon and zeolite in the tank, and just have the sponge in an internal filter. I added some filter wool into this too where the carbon was.I am a bit concerned about how the quality of the water will suffer.It is a ten day treatment, and I need to add the medicine on day 1, 3, 6, 8 and 10I know the carbon and the zeolite will remove the medicine if I have it in the tank at the same time, but will it be ok if I put them back in on the OFF days (ie. days 2, 4, 5, 7 and 9) Or do I need to keep them out throughout the whole treatment?Any advice will be great! Thanks!
- A: Don't bother about putting the carbon/ zeolite media parts back in the filter on the "off" days. The medication must continue to keep on working until the illness is completely gone. If you put back the carbon/zeolite, it would absorb the medication you put during the "on" days and the meds would be useless.I had an ick treatment that called for 2 weeks plus, since the ick is actually a parasite that lays eggs in the gravel so I had to continuously use the medication every 2 days to make sure there were no more free-floating ick bugs.
- Medicine and the carbon filter?
- Q: I was treating my goldfish with a medicine for fin rot and fungus, but its been 5 days with daily treatments and I see no change, if anything its much worse. I have a 200 ltr tank and tonight I put 45 ltrs of fresh water in and put the carbon filter back. I want to try a new medicine I picked up today. My question is, how long will the carbon filter take to remove the old medicine so I can use the new one safely?. Thanks:)Thanks for all the help. It might be that other disease, the white patches have turned bloody, these are a few photos I took tonight; http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9669/fish1yk3.jpghttp://img174.imageshack.us/img174/3905/fish2io9.jpghttp://img157.imageshack.us/img157/1289/fish3mediumcs5.jpgI cant see anything on his body or other fins, just this one and the others are showing no symptoms.
- A: Quite possibly it never will. It will depend on the ingredients of the medication. Some like copper are readily removed by carbon, but not all medications are. A good indication would be if the instructions of the former medication tell you to remove carbon when treating - if it doesn't specify to do this, carbon may not have any effect, and you'll need to do a series of large water changes to reduce the amount present.Also, be certain that what you goldfish has is fungus/fin rot. There's a bacterial infection (Columnaris) which looks similar, but can be differentiated by looking closely at the appearance - fungus (Saprolegnia and Achlya) have long, straight filaments and an irregular outline - this rarely attacks a healthy fish because their immune system is capable of fighting it off. If your fish has a fungal problem, it may be secondary to another problem such as ammonia or nitrite in the water or improper temperature. Ammonia can also cause the tail to erode, but the splits tend to be from the oouter edge inward (like the tail was ripped) while fin rot tends to occur along the edge only, and rot the entire edge inward. Unless the primary cause of stress to your fish is also addressed, the infection will keep returning. Columnaris has shorter matted (tangled) filaments and the infection has an outline that's nearly circular. This is fast-acting and can be transmitted to other fish. There are some medications that will treat both.ADDITION: After looking at your photos, I don't see any signs of either fin rot or fungus on him. Fin rot would resemble these: http://o-fish.com/HamaPenyakit/images/fin-rot.jpghttp://www.fishdeals.com/fish_diseases/fin_rot/finrot.gifAnd fungus (at least in later stages a few days old) would look like these: http://www.uib.no/bot/kurs/BB220/Algae/Figures/fish.jpg , http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/thumbnails/thumb_finrot.jpg Columnaris would look more like this (notice the circular outline): http://www.fishjunkies.com/images/Columnaris2.jpgWhile your fish does have noticeable white spots on the fins, what stands out more is the red streaking - this is a sign of either ammonia poisoning (high ammonia levels in the tank due to a new tank or recent use of an antibiotic that's killed the bacteria the converts the toxic ammonia to nitrate) or septicemia, which is a bacterial blood infection. You can find more on both conditions in the same link I posted earlier. If your tank is fairly new (less than 2 months old) the problem may just be ammonia from insufficent water changes (either not often enough, or not a large enough volume of water is being removed to keep the ammonia levels from building up). Do you test the water for ammonia and know the level in your tank? You should try to keep this below 0.5 ppm. If the streaking has only appeared since you started treating your fish, and you've used an antibiotic as one of your treatments, the ammonia may be the result of the loss of the beneficial bacteria. However if your tank has been established for a while, and you haven't added any new fish to increase the ammonia being produced, the problem may be septicemia. In either case, a large water change would be in order.A final (and less known) possibility is that your fish has been infected by Dermocystidium (and this would also fit with the red streaking, particularly if this is what you're seeing as being "lumpy"). Rather than being eggs, these are spores. There's no known treatment for this, but unless the gills are infected, it's typically not fatal. I would suggest separating your fish if you believe this is a possibility as the spores that are released are capable of infecting other fish. Again, I would recommend a large water change, and good vacuuming of the gravel to reduce the number of any free spores that are present in your tank. Some additional info on this condition (there are several species of Dermocystidium, but the species affecting koi and possibly goldfish is the one with most available info): http://www.fishdoc.net/disease/dermocystidium.htmhttp://www.fishbase.org/Diseases/DiseasesSummary2.cfm?discode=1542
- Melafix and Pimafix?
- Q: My 5 gal tank has been cycling for 4 weeks tomorrow. I have had both the ammonia and nitrite spikes and both seem to be leveling off now which I think is a good sign. However I believe my gourami has developed what some call cotton fungus or something like that. I would like to use melafix or pimafix (preferred) to help him. I know that you need to remove the carbon while using these medicines. Although it says it will not harm the biological filter, melafix is antibacterial so wont it kill off the beneficial bacteria in my tank? If anyone has any experience with melafix and pimafix and how it effects the good bacteria in the tank while treating sick fish please help me! Thanks :)
- A: Go with saucys advice on this, there a big possibility the infection your seeing is flexibacter columnaris on which melafix and pimafix will have presicely nil effect. Keep the tank cycling, but take the gourami out, put it in a decent sized container and ammolock the water there, and give the gourami and airstone, and a heater, use antibiotics as directed on the gourami in its new quarantine, and put a touch of protozin in the main tank to sterilise it without killing the filter. Hopefully that way you beat the bacteria on and in the fish, sterilise the tank without killing the filter, and once the gourami is clear it can go back into a nice tank still cycled, but purged of infection. Just maintain the cycle in the aquarium with a little crumbled fishfood, or a little ammonia.Failing that I guess youll have to treat the gourami in its own tank, the maracyn or furan in decent strength treatments will probably kill the filter and the gourami will have to go through the cycle again. Not ideal, but if its all you can do , its all you can do.My preferred drug of choice would be furan 2 TBH.Good luck with the gourami.
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